Just one study looked at the health benefits in humans, according to a review of the available literature published in the journal Annals of Epidemiology. Eating foods rich in probiotics is thought by some to increase one’s “good” bacteria and balance out the “bad.” Advertised as “probiotic,” the drink taps into interest in the microbiome, and how our diets can affect the microbial communities in our gut, and even our emotions. “I think there’s a ‘health halo’ around kombucha,” said Howard Telford, head of soft drinks research for Euromonitor International, a global market research provider. Proponents also contend kombucha helps rheumatism, gout, hemorrhoids, nervousness and liver function and fights cancer. The drinks are promoted as improving digestion and diabetes, strengthening the immune system, reducing blood pressure and being detoxifying. “Booch,” as it’s known, flows at megastores, coffeehouses and workplaces and in bars in a more boozy form, with enough alcohol to rival an I.P.A.
It has evolved into a $475 million industry in the United States, nearly quadrupling in the previous four years, according to Nielsen. The “tea of immortality” has come a long way from its reported beginning in China more than 2,000 years ago. Traditionally a carbonated drink with live micro-organisms, kombucha is made by brewing together sugar, black or green tea, liquid from a previous batch and the Scoby, short for symbiotic culture of bacteria and yeast (though its more popular nickname is “mother,” since it reproduces during fermentation). Kombucha is a fermented food, much like cultured yogurt, cheese, kefir, kimchi and sauerkraut.
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